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Kailash-Manas Sarovar Yatra Series-4

The Friendship Bridge

Image Courtesy:Prajna LS
 Next day morning, we proceeded towards Kodari border along with a team of Sherpa men in a private travel bus. These Sherpa team accompanies us throughout our journey.  This team takes care of routine breakfast, lunch and dinner.  It is a team consisting of trekking experts, a chef, and other helpers. A pantry vehicle follows the bus carrying pilgrims. Fortunately, our Sherpa team consisted of very caring and jovial persons.

 Our aim was to cross the Kodari border that day. We took the Arniko highway that connects Kathmandu with China occupied Tibet. Kodari is a small township comprising Tibetan migrants mostly. Nepali people are scantly visible. It is the last town of Nepal. Traveler inns are available providing only basic amenities.

Image Courtesy:Prajna LS
Kodari lies in a God gifted ambience. Whether it is a boon or a curse, one should decide for himself. Situated on top of a Himalayan valley, the town is blessed with a picturesque landscape. Green hills, countless waterfalls and the meandering Botikosi River flowing down the valley make this town look beautiful. However, the fate of migrants is a big question mark. Poverty and an uncertain future haunt the township and that is strikingly visible for travelers.

 The road to Kadori from Kathmandu is called the Arniko Highway. This road has been constructed with the initiatives taken by the China Government for the improvement of bilateral trade and commerce. You can’t call it a proper highway. It is a narrow strip of road skirted by steep hills on side and the Botikosi River Valley on the other side. Landslides are common during rains. We could notice the damage already done by previous landslides. A scary highway indeed.

A bridge has been built across the Botikosi River and the bridge is known as ‘Friendship Bridge’. This bridge is a part of the Arniko Highway connecting China with Nepal. One will have to cross the bridge on foot. Nepali vehicles are not allowed on this. A red line has been drawn in the middle to mark the boundary between two countries. Chinese military commandos will be guarding on the other half. Border crossing is done through strict immigration process.

Chinese immigration center is located on the Chinese side of the bridge. That area is called Zangmu. The United Nations has not officially recognized Chinese status on the Tibetan territory. However, China is executing its supremacy over the land and visitors are supposed to respect the law of the land. After crossing the border, tourists will have to travel with Chinese travel guides in the Chinese permit vehicles.

Due to Indo-China border tensions the Kailsh Manas Sarovar Yatra was banned from 1962 to 1981. Kadori is the only official gateway to enter China from Nepal side. We were strictly warned in Kathmandu as not to talk about political affairs of China and about Dalai Lama.  It is almost a known factor there. There seems to be an undeclared deal among the Nepali merchants/businessmen/traders/travel agencies. They do not encourage any kind of activities against the Chinese policies in Kathmandu or anywhere inside the Chinese territory. In that way they have secured entry into the Chinese territory. One can use the trade route for uninterrupted trade and commerce. That must be the reason, perhaps, that the number of private travel agencies in Kathmandu is increasing day by day for conducting Kailash-Manas Sarovar Yatra. These private agencies assure us of a safe journey inside the Chinese Territory for the same reason. As long as one does not protest or keeps showing green signal to the Chinese Supremacy the show goes on!

Most of our travel mates were elders. Most of them had come to accomplish the ultimate yatra, it was a dream come true for them. They were excited, thrilled to have that ultimate experience of reaching the abode of Shiva. However, the Kailash Manasarovar yatra (on this route) makes us to think about the bilateral relations of India and Nepal with China. We did share a bit of unexplainable anxiety, could observe the same in the eyes of the migrant workers crossing the bridge everyday for the daily bread.

One needs to obtain a valid passport and a Chinese Visa before crossing the border. We had group Visa, but we had to get through the immigration check in. The Chinese agent booked by the Nepali travel agency must be present on the Chinese side to complete the formalities. To our bad luck, that fellow didn’t turn up on that day. We were put up in a roadside inn. We waited till the evening for the Chinese guide. Late in the evening, our Nepali guide came back with the message that the Chinese guide would come next day morning. We were made to stay in the same inn where we had lunch that noon.
Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

Image Courtesy:Prajna LS
Houses of that town were roughly built on the hill slope, terraced residences. Timber houses without foundation. The Inn we had stayed was built on the edge of a slope overlooking the Botikosi river stream. It had a balcony and if we stand on that we would feel as if we were standing on a hanging bridge! Such an unstable condition. Kids of migrant workers rush towards you asking for snacks, and money. Pretty and adorable Tibetan faces, mostly girls and women were seen.

Next day, we woke up to a chilly morning, bought hot water paying 100 Nepali rupees for each bucket, had bath and got ready to cross the border. After this day, we again had bath only in Kathmandu on our return journey, on the twelfth day!  It is just five minutes’ walk from our inn to the Friendship Bridge. We crossed the bridge in a line. It was indeed an emotional moment for all of us to cross the border of a country on foot. I was imagining about the experience of crossing the Indo-Pak border!

Photography is not allowed on the bridge. Even at the immigration center, visitors are not allowed to take photos. But, we noticed a few foreign visitors shooting outside the immigration center. Please confirm anyway with your travel guides before taking snaps. We took a snap of the bridge from a far distance.
The Chinese guide had arrived and we proceeded towards Nyalam in a bus. The road from Zangmu to Manassarovar is well maintained. We would be provided with a well conditioned luxury bus to travel. So, the bus journey till we reach Manas Sarovar is completely hassle free. But, one can’t be so confident about the accommodation facility. Now, we have entered the Tibetan Plateau.

Let’s explore the Tibetan plateau in the next episode!


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Explore North East India

North-Eastern India is the less explored region in India compared to other parts of the nation. Lack of accessibility was the major concern for the tourists. But, now, the region is slowly opening up to nature enthusiasts. Though there are instances of separatist protests and agitations in a few parts of the region, tourists activities go on. However, it is better to update yourself before landing up there.
North East India, as the name suggests, is located to the North-Eastern part of India bordering China (Southern Tibet), Bhutan, Bangladesh and Myanmar. The region consists of seven states: Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, and Tripura. Rich biodiversity, indigenous local cultures and picturesque landscape have made this region versatile and unique. Let us explore the tourism possibilities of each state within this region. There are two World Heritage Sites in the region and they are located in Assam: Kaziranga Wildlife Sanctuary and Manas Wildlife Sanctuary in Assam.
Arunachal Pradesh
Known as ‘The land of Dawn lit Mountains’, the state of Arunachal Pradesh is located on the eastern most part of North Eastern India bordering China, Bhutan, Myanmar, Nagaland and Assam. Bound by the Himalayan Mountains in the north, the state is the home for exclusively rare variety of orchids. Hence it is also called the Orchid State of India.
Image credit: sparktravels.com
Culture of Arunachal Pradesh comprises indigenous tribes and Buddhist traditions mainly. Most of the tribal language belongs to Tibeto0Burman family, which is known as Tani language. Itanagar is the capital city.
Buddhist Gompas occupy the larger section of state heritage sites and thus makes the state a destination for ‘Spiritual Tourism’. The Tawang Monastery is one of the important Buddhist sites in the entire India.
Travellers need Inner Lane Permits to travel within the state. There are different travel circuits marked by the Tourism Authorities and the tourists will have to mention to which circuit they will be travelling.
Travel locations within the state are spread out among five river valleys (the Kameng, the Subansiri, the Siang, the Lohit and the Tirap), lakes, Himalayan peaks and Himalayan forests. The climate depends upon the locations; freezing Greater Himalayas, cool Middle Himalayas or moderate lower Himalayas.
Four main travel circuits are:
  • Tezpur-Tipi-Bombdilla-Tawang
  • Tinsukia-Tezu-parasuramkund
  • Margherita-Miao-Namdapha
  • Itanagar-Ziro-Daporijo-Along-Pasighat
Main tourist destinations within the state are:
  • Tawang Monastery: This 17th century Buddhist monastery is the largest in India located about 180 km from Bomdilla. It is situated at 10,000 ft altitude.
  • Ziro: This is the headquarters of Lower Subansiri district. This town is known for community festivals hosted by the Apatani tribe.
  • Namdapha Tiger Project
  • Sela Lake near Bomdilla
  • Malinathan temple, Rukmini Nagar, Parasuram Kund are associated with epics of India.
  • Itanagar: the state capital houses archaeological sites. Ita Fort, Ganga lake, Jawaharlal Museum are main attractions.

The state is not served by a proper airport. Airports in the Assam state are the nearest points for air travellers. By road, the state is connected to Tezpur of Assam. Soon it will be connected by a railway line Harmuti to Naharlagun. Stay in guest houses, lodges, private hotels and home stays. 

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Wayanad


Wayanad region in Kerala is known for aboriginal tribal culture, paddy fields and rich forests. The region is not connected by rail network yet. It is situated in the southern tip of the Deccan Plateau bordering Karnataka and Tamil Nadu states. The region has been a district in the state of Tamil Nadu. The entire region comprising three Taluks has been chosen as one of the promising tourist spots under the Responsible Tourism project in Kerala.
Kalpetta is the district headquarters. You can approach this region via Karnataka or Tamil Nadu. From Karnataka side, one can enter through Mysore and Coorg. Kozhikode in Kerala is the nearest major destination that is connected well by rail/road and airways. Kalpetta is at a distance of about 75 km from Kozhikode. Sultan Bathery is another main town in Wayanad having good connection.
Speciality of this region is that it is tucked away in the wild forests of Western Ghats. The remoteness and less movement of population have created a distinct atmosphere in the entire region. You feel like exploring more. Winding Ghat sections, thick jungles, wild life, heritage spots and the local indigenous/un-disturbed tribal culture are really rewarding. Preservation and conservation of the local culture and environment has been the priority of Wayanad Tourism Organization.


Explore:
 
Chembra Peak  
 (image courtesy:kiran kumar)

Chembra Peak, Neelima View Point, Meenmutty Falls, Chethalaym Falls, Brhamagiri Hills, Banasura Sagar Dam, Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuaries in Muthunga and Tholpetty, Sulthan Bahthery Jain Temple, Edakkal Caves, Wayanad Heritage Museum, Muniyara, Pazhassi Raja’s Tomb, Valliyoor Temple, Papanashini, Tirunelli, Pookote Lake, Sentinal Rock Falls, Sunrise Valley and phantom rock…huh! Innumerable spots you see.
Many NGOs have joined hands in the preservation of local culture and have been providing market to locally grown products. Medicinal herbs, spices and handicrafts produced in this region are in great demand.
Accommodation:
Resorts and home stays overlooking Jungles and plantations are very popular among the tourists here. These home stays provide the experience of traditional homes of Kerala. Jungle resorts are typical of this region.

Thekkady

The Responsible Tourism project in Thekkady was inaugurated in 2008. The intention behind this project was to provide a reliable market for the local products, and to ensure eco-friendly tourism in the region.
Kerala state is a hotspot of Indian tourism. Destinations of diverse interests like beaches, ancient temples, backwater trail, houseboats, wildlife sanctuaries, hill stations and moreover the state offers peace full travel experience.
Thekkady, which is known for Periyar Tiger Reserve is located in the Idukki district of Kerala. Idukki district itself is a major attraction comprising wildlife sanctuaries, hill stations, spice plantations, elephant rides and rich landscape.
Thekkady is the gateway to enter the Periyar Reservoir which is famous for the Periyar Tiger Reserve. Thekkady is a small village showcasing the rich heritage of Kerala Culture. Timber cottages, eco-friendly resorts, home stays are available here for the tourists.
      Periyar Reservoir 
(Image Courtesy: osakaair.com)

Nearest railhead is Kottayam and the nearest airport is available at Madurai. However, ideal way to enter the place is to go via Munnar hill station. Munnar is situated at about 85 km. If you go in a private vehicle, you can reach within 2 hours. On the way, you can have a glance at spectacular spice plantations.
Munnar is closer to Ernakulam Railway Station and Cochin International Airport is the nearest air base. So, you can cover Fort Kochi, Munnar and Tekkadi in one package. Spend a day at Thekkady to experience the village stay.
You may have to buy tickets for entering Periyar Reserve at Thekkady. A jungle safari in the Periyar Reservoir is the main part of the Jungle Safari over there. You will get to see wild animals near the river. Actually the Tiger Reserve is located within an island surrounded by the Periyar Lake. So, you would be taking a round of the Periyar Lake. Boat mishaps have been reported recently, confirm with the locals before booking a boat ride.

 Visit nearby spice and coffee plantations; Murikkady is the nearest of all. Thekkady is also connected to Kodaikenal Hill station of Tamil Nadu. 

Kailash-Manas Sarovar Yatra Series-3


Kathmandu to Kadori


Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal is an ocean of mysteries. It is one of the ancient cities of Nepal comprising Hindu, Buddhist and local Nepali culture. At the outset, the city does not open up to strangers. Temples of ancient Hindu origin, Buddhist Stupas, Tantric cult, relics of vanishing royalty, and the silent presence of China can represent only half of the umpteen hidden stories. 
 We were there for only one day and were allowed to go out till the evening to explore the city. In the evening, we were supposed to attend a training session conducted by our travel supervisors. We were put up in a three star hotel near the airport. Yatris (pilgrims) coming from various part of India were there. Our batch of pilgrims consisted of around twenty yatris from Karnataka. A small group had come from Delhi. All of us were set to start our Yatra the next day.
We woke up to a misty morning; the city was drenched in rains the night before. The local guides had told us that they would take us to see Pashupatinath Temple at around 9 a.m. We, three ladies (me, my aunt and my sister-in-law) wished to have a morning walk. We found a joggers pathway just in front of our hotel.
We found group of ladies wearing red and yellow saris walking up and down that path. Some passerby said that the pathway leads to the Pashupatinath Temple and the ladies were dressed up for Naga Panchami celebrations. As we moved back, we were tempted by a roadside tea vendor and we sat on the small cane stools before the vendor. It was she. Her name was Manju. As we were sipping the hot tea served in tiny plastic cups an old woman whose hair was knotted into a bun on top of her head came there, took another stool and perched there. She had worn a brown colored sari and was joined by another woman wearing similar kind of sari. As we greeted they smiled at us. Manju served black tea to them. They were conversing in Nepali Bhasa. In a few minutes, as we were watching, Manju offered a cigarette to the top knotted old woman, and the lady started puffing fumes!
The moment was like a flash of experience for us. I knew about Nepali men and women puffing Ganja (Marijuana). One can recall the song ‘Dum Maro Dum’ from Devanand’s film Hare Rama Hare Krishna! When we asked, the woman told her name, it was Velmayi. Earlier, on our walk, we had met another old woman plucking some tender herbs on the roadside. Whenever I recall this ‘flash of experience’, I feel like visiting Kathmandu once again to spend lengthy hours with these women to hear their stories!  
We took a round of the city in the noon. We visited Pashupatinath Temple. This ancient temple of Shiva is situated on the banks of Bhagmati River. It was crowded with women in bright hues. Saris in red, yellow and green combination, bright red lipstick, vermillion on the forehead, flowers to hair and bead necklaces…gleeful Nepali women in groups were seen everywhere. 
Image Courtesy:Prajna LS
 Some were sitting before priests performing rituals, some were dancing in the temple courtyard, and some were standing in the long queue waiting for their turn to have a darshan of the deity. We were not allowed to take the camera inside the temple premises. So, I missed taking a picture of that ancient structure. 
 After that, we were taken to the well known Bouddhanath Stupa of Nepal. That evening we attended a briefing session about trekking. We were given down jackets; these are provided by the travels people for rent. They took 500 Nepali rupees. Next day, we were supposed to cross the Friendship Bridge at Kodari and reach Nyalam. 

 


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Kovalam


Kovalam, being one of the popular destinations in Kerala, is located at about 16 km from the state capital Trivandrum. Kerala Tourism has taken eco-friendly initiatives in Kovalam by launching ‘Beyond Beach’ project. Beyond Beach is an offshoot of the Responsible Tourism in Kerala.
As we all know that Kovalam is best known for beach resorts. It is one of the oldest tourist attractions of India since the time of the British. ‘Beyond Beach’ programme offers a unique kind of experience to the traveller and it is mutually rewarding for both: the traveller and the local people. The intention is to develop community based awareness about the local culture and environment as to benefit both the host and the tourist. 

Vizhinjam
Image Courtesy:Arun Jr
No matter whether you are a frequent visitor or a new comer, make sure to ask about this special service that is provided by the local guides. The guides would take you to explore the lesser known interiors of Kovalam and its village surroundings. Have a village life experience in Kovalam.

How to reach:

Trivandrum is the nearest destination to reach Kovalam by road, rail and airways. Hire taxis from Trivandrum to Kovalam.

Where to stay:

Beach resorts overlooking the sea are available.

What to see:

Kovalam is famous for its beaches. Three beaches constitute the 17km long coast line along the Arabian Sea. The Lighthouse beach is the most popular one.
Surfing, Boat ride and motor boat ride services are available on the coast.
Visit Vizhinjam, Poovar, Akkulam, and Agasthyarkoodam Peak if you get time.

“Grape City” Nasik


Present day Nashik wears an urban set up catering all kinds of modern amenities in terms of accommodation, education, health care and entertainment. The city has already started preparing for the biggest event of 2015 i.e. Maha Kumbhamela. Millions of people visit Nashik at that time; it is not an easy task to manage such a massive crowd. In fact, on the day that we had gone, the city was celebrating the Chhat Puja event. 
image courtesy: Prajna LS
 
Chhat is a Hindu festival in reverence of Sun God. It falls on the sixth day of Kartik month (mostly in November after the celebration of Deepawali) according to Hindu calendar. Not all Indians celebrate this Puja; mostly people of Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Uttar Pradesh and Jharkhand perform oblations to Sun standing in water.
That day, there was a huge crowd at the banks of Godavari River in Nashik. Devotees who celebrate Chhat had gathered there to perform the ritual. It was already evening when we reached there. The place is called ‘Ramkund’. Pavements and steps are built on either sides of the river. Thousands of devotees coming from nearby places were doing pujas holding the thalis of arati and the entire ambience was filled with enthusiasm.
Before that, we had taken a round of some other tourist sites of the city. People who are familiar with stories of the Ramayana may remember the instances related to Shri Rama’s exile in Panchavati. It was the place where he had stayed along with Sita and Lakshmana. This ancient Panchavati is now located in Nashik.
Visitors can see various places related to Rama’s exile such as Sita’s Cave, the Tapovan, Panchavati, Kalaram Temple and Ram-Sita temple. All the sites have been recreated in accordance with the Ramayana instances for the tourists. These sites are located near Ramkund. One has to walk through the narrow streets skirted by old buildings of the city to visit these sites. This part of the city can give you a glimpse of old Nashik.
We missed visiting one important place in Nashik, I regret. That is the Phalke Memorial which is built in the memory of late Dadasaheb Phalke. Dada Saheb Phalke is known as the Father of Indian Cinema who made the first full length feature film of India named ‘Raja Harishchandra’ in 1913. Nashik was his home town where he breathed his last.
The Phalke Memorial provides clippings from Phalkeji’s life and work. A show comprising movie clippings would be shown in the evenings for the visitors, we missed viewing that. We did not know about the show timings, by the time we decided to go it was over.
Next day morning, we left for Vani. Vani is located at about 75 km from Nashik. It is the abode of Saptashrungi Mata, a powerful deity situated amidst seven hills of the Sahyadri Mountain Range. Nanduri Village is the nearest point to reach the hill temple. The temple is located on a rocky hill. The village that is spread out around the hill temple is known as Vani.
One has to climb up to reach the temple. Thousands of devotees visit every day it seems. The goddess is revered as one among the 51 Shakti Peethas of India. You would walk through rows of shops selling all accessories of the goddess. It was our taxi driver who had insisted us to take a ‘darshan’ of the goddess.
We returned to Aurangabad that evening itself by Jan Shatabdi. Ahhh…How could we forget buying Khishmish (raisins) for home?! Nashik is one of the highest grape growing regions of India.


Kumarakonam


Kumarakonam shines like a jewel in the crown; it is the pride of backwater tourism in India. Stretched to the eastern side of the Vembanad Lake, Kumarakonam is also known to be an important destination in the emerging Responsible Tourism in India.
Location:
Kumarakonam is a part of Kottayam district in Kerala situated besides the famous Vembanad Lake. The location can be called a cluster of villages nearby the Vembanad Lake. From Kottayam (15km), it is just 15 minutes drive. Kottayam is the nearest railhead and Cochin International Airport is the nearest (95 km) airport. Ferries are available from Allepy and Kochi. 
Image courtesy: weareholidays.co.in
 The Vembanad Lake in Kerala is the backbone of Backwater Tourism in that state. It is the longest lake in Kerala stretching between Kochi and Allepy. The lake is surrounded by Kotayam, Ernakulam and Alappuzha districts. Cluster of islands formed in the lake have become tourist spots. Six major rivers of Kerala merge into this lake.
Fort Kochi lies on the north western side of the lake where as Kumarakonam is situated to the south eastern side. A salt water barrier has been built across the stream of the lake to avoid salt water flow into the lake. It is called the Thanneermukkom barrier and as a result one side of the hat barrier is a fresh water lake. Kumarakonam is a part of the fresh water lake side.
It is known for:
Kumarakonam has made news recently by bagging the prestigious UN award for Sustainable Tourism. It is a part of Kerala’s Responsible Tourism project.
The destination is known for backwater tourism, houseboats, and fishing. The place is the epitome of serene beauty by housing coconut groves on the either sides of the canals. Kumarakom Boat Race is a major event in the locality.
Tourists like the place because the place provides luxurious resorts and houseboats. Wide ranges of houseboats overlooking the lake are available here.
Visit Kumarakonam Bird sanctuary that is located near the Vembanad Lake. A Victorian Bungalow which is the present day Taj Garden Retreat, which was the home of Baker family is situated near the sanctuary. Back in time it was known as the Baker’s estate.
If you have read Arundhati Roy’s The God of Small Things, the Aymanam village mentioned in the book resembles Kumarakonam.
Best option would be to stay in a hired houseboat. It is an experience of a unique kind. You would get plenty of other options too. Lake view resorts, Home stays, eco-resorts, Villas, and budget hotels are available. Don’t forget to relish the local delicacies like Appam, Kappa, Karimeen (Pearl Spot fish) and varieties of seafood.

Taj Mahal …a real beauty


Taj Mahal
Image courtesy: Seba Della y Sole Bossio

Almost each Indian family has a Taj mahal in their list to visit and why shouldn’t it be? It is the on the top list of every foreign tourists while their stay in India. The great Taj Mahal, breathtakingly amazing white marbled sculpture which is in one of the seven wonders of World is an impeccable example of symmetrical structure; especially enchanting since it was built five centuries back.
Mughal emperor Shah Jahan dedicated this taj mahal to his third wife Mumtaz Mahal who died while giving birth to his fourteenth offspring. It took 20 years to complete this sculpture and more than 22,000 people to build it. Taj mahal is considered as a “symbol of love”. It is a wonder when we watch this monument carefully that this could be built in 16th century meaning how developed and skilled architectural concepts existed at that time.
The calligraphy written on the great gate says “o soul though at rest return to the lord at peace with him & he at peace with you”.
It is said that Shah Jahan wanted to build the same building but in black marble on the other side of the river but that couldn’t be fulfilled since he had a war with his sons for the crown of the emperor ship.
Taj mahal is in the Agra district of the state Uttar Pradesh in north India. It is 124km away from the Delhi, the capital city of India. After reaching Delhi one can hire car or go by bus to Agra.
The name taj mahal means the crown palace. It is among the list of the seven most notable places all over the world.
Taj Mahal takes different colours at different times of the day. It is assumes that symbolizes the moods of his queen Mumtaz Mahal. It is pink in the morning time; it looks white in the day time and golden in the moon light.
It was rumoured that many precious stones were hidden in the walls of this monument while the time of construction and they could be seen in the moon light on full moon night but those were snatched and taken out by British during 1857.
It is considered to be a romantic place; may be because of the history it has left behind but when you visit this place with your loved one and feels the beauty of this place during the night you can’t stop falling in love once again with your loved one, yourself and with this beautiful place.


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