We had walked about 12 km in the rugged terrain of Kailas circuit to reach Dirapuk from Darchen. Mount Kailas is seen from a very close distance here. We were overwhelmed, excited and content. Dirpuk is located at 4, 600 meters above the sea level. Altitude sickness gets severe from here. We rested in tin sheds after initial excitement of passing the first stage of Kailas Kora.

Accommodation at Dirapuk, or at Zultulpuk is getting better year after year, I think. As we heard the experiences of those who had gone earlier, there used to be tents. Now, the Chinese Government has built tin sheds providing space for 4 members each in rooms. 8/10 rooms have been constructed. We didn’t see any latrine there. We had to use open space for the routine.

My aunt, uncle and I were little anxious, since my brother and his wife had not arrived. They arrived an hour later and we were quite relieved! Soon the shades of evening turned black and we were desperately waiting for the soup to be served. It was not hunger, I guess, we needed something hot, very hot. We sipped soups as if we had been starved for months together.

Climate at Dirapuk is quite uncertain. It can rain anytime, and sometimes even snowfall occurs. One can’t be sure of second day parikrama. Sherpas judge the climate condition and advice accordingly whether to proceed or to return. Despite Diamox intake we were feeling nausea, headache, and body temperature. That night, we could not eat much. I had gulped a tablet for fever, and at about midnight I was drenched in sweat. It was pouring outside! Ohh…good sign. I was wishing for the announcement of our return due to bad weather. Delusions of dark hours!!

Second Day was broken amidst fog and slight drizzles. Sherpas were confident of moving further and asked us to get ready. Those who feel very sick can return from Dirapuk, they advised. “Himmat Rakhkho…Himmat se kaam chalega” said Sangya Sherpa with a naughty smile. The Sherpas had already kept a barrel of warm water for washing purpose in front of our rooms. After having a brisk breakfast, we marched towards Zutulpuk which needed about 32 km trek.

This day was the toughest day of all during our Yatra. We were supposed to pass through the Drolma La Pass (18,600 ft) and the famous Gauri Kund. The trek included ascending the slope of Drolma La and then, descending the slope. Once after descending the slope, we had to take up a long trek along a river stream up to Zutulpuk. Exact calculation of the time and distance up to Drolma la (8km) and from there up to Zutulpuk (24 km may be) is not possible. We reached Drolma La pass (8 km up) in three stages. It is a steep up.

The surrounding had received good snowfall the previous night. Not a sunny day. Thick fog had covered the hills making it more difficult for a walk. We were on an unfathomable path, metaphorically! I just laid my burden on my destiny that had led me so far and was confident that I would be taken good care of by my guru Sri Datta.

Sherpas were holding two oxygen cylinders for emergency. But, they had advised us to use that only if it was necessary. They had warned that the oxygen supplement would have side effects, it may block lungs even more and if it happens one may have to go back. It was a testing period of our patience, will power, courage and luck.

We started moving slowly, one after another. It was a narrow strip on a snowy hill partially covered with snow. For every two steps I had to stop, take rest on my walking stick and then had move on. We had to pass through three steep acclivities of which the last ascent was breathtaking experience. Through the misty depth we passed, it was like experiencing the fate of an embryo inside the womb. We could see the last acclivity, on which some hikers were visible, though not so clearly.

We were not allowed to stop anywhere. “Keep walking” Neema Sherpa who was carrying my knapsack along with the camera bag used to poke. Senior team mates on the pony used to greet us occasionally. We walked to strange tunes hummed by the Chinese porters. We were crawling inside the depth of silence.

I was breathing heavily making sounds. I had to consume water in between to prevent dehydration. Dry fruits will help reducing energy loss; keep them in the pockets of your jacket. I was unable to hold even the flask. Neema Sherpa used to hold that and he used to open even the lid of the flask for me! He would give my camera whenever he felt it would be alright to stop for a minute for taking photos. I thank him for being so kind.

One of our senior mates, Manju aunty, had completed the first day Parikrama by walk. But, on the second day, she felt that she can’t climb the ascending slope. Luckily she caught hold of a pony man who was returning from the top after dropping a pilgrim. One will get Ponies till the top only. After reaching the top (Drolma La) one will have to descend a steep slope till some distance. Ponies can’t descend on that slope. However, for those who have booked ponies in advance for all the three days would get back to the pony ride after reaching the ground.

We were ascending the third slope. Someone was sick on the way, was being assisted with oxygen. Neema didn’t allow me to stand there. He hurried me to move on. It was a steep rocky slope. I could feel my legs shaking. The whole area was covered with thick fog. I had forgotten the world that I had left behind! Face of my darling daughter flashed through my mind, suddenly. Move or die! I had forgotten my state of being itself. Inexplicable state of mind that was…….. in tune with the symphony of unbound-ruthless-wild nature. Each step seemed heavy…a state of oblivion.

It was when Neema Sherpa said that we had reached the top I was not in state to rejoice really! Yes, we had reached the top of Drolma La Pass. Huh!

[To be continued….]  

Kailas Parikrama is nothing but a trekking process around the Kailas Circuit. Parikrama means circumambulation. Some go for 3 day trekking, some for 9 days, some for 13 and some choose one day depending upon their health. The total distance to be covered in a three day parikrama is approximately 52 km. This task is an important part of Kailas-Manas Sarovar Yatra, though not compulsory. People who are physical fit and mentally confident may take up the task. It is the hardest task of the yatra, but, the most fulfilling one!

Mount Kailas is revered with great devotion by Hindu, Jain and Buddhist followers. In the Jain tradition, Kailas is considered to be the mount (Ashtapada Parvat) on which the first Teerthankar Rishabhdev attained his salvation. According to Bon Buddhist tradition, the mount is a highly energetic place representing transcendental energy. This place is associated with Guru Rinpoche, the Padmasambhava.

Hindus consider the mount as to be the abode of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvathi. Kailas Parvat is said to be the source for many rivers. Indus, Satlej, Brahmaputra, and Ghagra Rivers originate somewhere near the Kailas circuit. By circumambulating the mount, it is believed, that one would attain supreme energy and would be purified.

One can take up the task only after reaching Lake Manas. The trekking starts from a place called Darchen, the base point actually. Darchen is located at about 8 km from Lake Manas, and can be approached by motored vehicles.

The night before the parikrama, our Sherpa team gave us some tips for the mountain walk. They showed us how to handle fatigue and breathlessness during the parikrama. Not only that, they had also narrated stories of devotees who had died half way! That was very scary and made us to think twice before deciding.

A small backpack containing dry fruits, medicine, a flask, a torch, a pain balm tube and tissue roles were kept ready. Even to carry such a lightweight backpack we had hired porters. Chinese porters will come at the gateway (Yamadwar, the starting point) and we had hired them for 700 yens. The sherpas will collect the money and I guess full amount will not be paid to the porters! Pilgrims who feel uncomfortable to walk can hire ponies. Book your pony for all three days; you may not get a pony in the middle of your parikrama.

Next day morning, after a small breakfast, we had moved towards Yamadwar, the starting point of our Parikrama. Dressed in three layered cloths, we had reached Yamadwar in a bus. Our porters and Pony caretakers had already gathered at Yamadwar. For our group (I, aunt and uncle, brother and his wife) the Sherpas themselves got ready to carry the backpack.

I don’t know why it is named like that. But, a scary name it was. Yama, as you all know is the governor of death according to Hindus. This is the gateway to his home! There is a small shrine inside which heads of slain goats and Yaks are hung. There is a small bell inside and by tradition every pilgrim would perform circumambulation of the shrine three times after ringing the bell for a safe return. We were already nervous looking at the shrine. We proceeded further after performing the circumambulation.

 

image credit:Prajna LS

Our target was to reach Dirapuk. We were instructed to walk very slowly leaning on to the walking stick whenever it was necessary. It is not a competion of any sort to reach first. It won’t be difficult to walk on a plain, but, it would be highly difficult for ups. Take rest for a while (not more than a minute) and move forward if you feel breathlessness. We saw a Buddhist devotee prostrating for every other step. He had covered his hands with shoes.

The route on the first day Parikrama was not so complicated. We walked along the Yak River. Our path pierced through the rugged terrain comprising steep rocky hills. These same hills would be covered with snow during winter, but, we had gone there in August. So, the terrain was uncovered, rocky and plain, resonating deep silence.

We could reach the target by afternoon. Dirapuk houses a Buddhist Gompa. But, a surprise was waiting for us when we reached there. It was the last up. We had taken about half an hour to climb up, then, we turned to our right and were dumbstruck at the sight of Mount Kailas from such a close distance. It was such a solemn and serene sight, that I would always cherish in my memory. As we sat on the ground below there, we felt as if we were sitting at the feet of Lord Shiva himself!

Wait for the next episode to read about the second and third day parikrama!

Known:

The heritage city Aurangabad (Maharashtra) is best known for the Ajanta and Ellora caves. The city serves as a base destination for reaching the historical sites mentioned above and attracts tourists from all across the globe. This city was a Mughal Territory in the reign of Aurangazeb and is named after the emperor. The city houses the mausoleum of Aurangzeb’s wife which is known as the Taj of Deccan.

Aurangabad’s proximity to Ellora, Ajanta, Daulatabad and Shirdi has earned the city a prominent place in the tourism industry of India. The city has geared up to cater both national and international tourists by providing good accommodation and transportation facilities. The city is served by a well connected airport and a railway station. MTDC (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation) provides special tourist packages for seeing Ajanta and Ellora Caves. You can also ask for private transport services or hire a car to reach here.

Lesser-known:

Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

Sharangdev Samaroh is one such step taken by MAHAGAMI. This cultural event celebrates the rich heritage of classical music and dance that exists in various forms all across India. This event is especially dedicated to the 13^th century musicologist Sharangadev, who is said to have lived in the court of Devagiri Yadava rulers. Devagiri is the present day Daulatabad which is at about 17 km from the city.

Sangeeta Ratnakara, the book written by Sharangadev is an important text for the seekers of both Hindustani and Carnatic music tradition. This 13^th century text documents almost all the prevalent dance and music traditions of that time and gives descriptions about technical details of dance movements, music, and rhythm. So, to commemorate the contribution made by the author, the Sharangadev Samaroh will be held in the land where the author created such a treatise.

The cultural event comprises of a three day workshop followed by evening concerts. Eminent artists belonging to various music and dance traditions such as Bharatanatyam, Kuchipudi, Kathakali, Kathak, Odissi, Mohiniattam and Manipuri will present their pieces. Noted artists like Birju Maharaj, Ustad Zia Fariduddin Dagar, Pandit Hariprasad Chaurasia, Dr. Padma Subrahmanyam, Padma Bhushan Swapna Sundari, Sadanam Balakrishnan and many other scholars have graced the event so far.

Dear tourist…

If you are planning to visit Aurangabad, please make a note of this event. Normally, the event will be held in January or February for three days and nights. Visitors can make use of this opportunity if they are in the city during that time. Try something different when you are in Aurangabad next time. Experience the lesser- known treasures of Aurangabad.

 

 What comes to your mind when you hear of Goa? Beaches of course! Goa, being one of the popular destinations for holidaying on the sea shore, attracts millions of tourists every year. One will not get tired of visiting Goa, be it for a casual or a formal visit. Goa indeed is a tourist’s heaven by providing a true freak out time. Have fun, celebrate, be merry, relax and rejuvenate in Goa. It is that part of India which is the most explored one; yet, one will be surprised to know it is still left with unmarked corners. 

 This article makes an attempt to introduce some of the unexplored parts of Goa, focusing especially upon beaches. If you are on a family trip and want to spend some fun times with kids, then visit commercialized beaches in Goa. These beaches provide snacks stalls, water sports, and other entertainments like paragliding, scuba diving, kayaking etc. When we talked about the beaches in Goa, it hosts both commercialized and secluded beaches. Most of the commercialized beaches are situated in the North Goa whereas South Goa hosts most of the secluded ones.

 Goa, situated on the western coastline of India, is best known for white sand beaches, churches, temples, and fenny! It is well connected by air, road and railways. It may sound funny, if you search for a city named Goa anywhere in Goa you would not find. Goa is the name given to the entire region on the Arabian Sea coast comprising North and South Goa. So, where would you land up if you are an outsider? You may choose either Panjim in North Goa or Madgaon in the South Goa section as base destinations to travel around the region. 

Panjim is the headquarters of North Goa which is at about 550 km from Mumbai. Madgaon, headquarters of South Goa, is just 45 minutes drive from Panjim. However the airport is based at Dabolim in Vasco, 35 minutes drive from Panjim. Goa has two railway heads: one at Vasco, the other at Madagaon which is connected by Konkan Railway services.

If you are interested in exploring secluded beaches in Goa, let me tell you, go towards the south. Make Madagaon the base destination, and explore each beach a day if you are there for more than a week. Southern beaches are less travelled, least crowded, and most of them provide completely secluded private beach resorts.

Let us start with Colva Beach which is situated near Madgaon city. It is just 15 minutes drive from Madgaon (Margao). This was one of the secluded beaches of South Goa up until recently. Now, it is attracting more and more visitors and hence it has become a popular beach providing entertainment and luxury. It is stretched 20 km on the Western Coast.

Colva Beach Colva beach Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

If we move towards the south of Colva, we find the Benaulim Beach. You can locate the Church of St John the Baptist here on a hill top. This is basically a fishing village. You can buy wooden crafts and furniture here. 

Cavelossium Beach is just half an hour drive from Madgaon. This beach, along with Varca and Mobor beaches, is known to be the most non-commercialized beaches of Goa. A Less crowded beach of course. You may find huts converted as restaurants here and there.

Cavelossium Beach Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

 Goa is stretched up to Sadashivghad, but Sadashivghad belongs to Karwar district in Karnataka. Sadashivghad is the place where Kali River merges into Arabian Sea. As we move on to further southwards, we find two most important beaches on the western coast situated in Goa. One is Agonda Beach and other one is the Palolem Beach.

Agonda Beach Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

Palolem Beach Image Courtesy:Prajna LS

 Agonda is situated at about 35 km from Madgaon. This is for those who would love lonely beaches. Agonda beach is completely untouched by commercialization and less crowded compare to other beaches in South Goa. You would not find any snacks stalls or accommodation here. It is a lonely white sand beach good for photographers who would like to explore wild and raw nature. 

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