Kailas Parikrama –Drolma La Pass!
We had walked about 12
km in the rugged terrain of Kailas circuit to reach Dirapuk from
Darchen. Mount Kailas is seen from a very close distance here. We
were overwhelmed, excited and content. Dirpuk is located at 4, 600
meters above the sea level. Altitude sickness gets severe from here.
We rested in tin sheds after initial excitement of passing the first
stage of Kailas Kora.
Accommodation at
Dirapuk, or at Zultulpuk is getting better year after year, I think.
As we heard the experiences of those who had gone earlier, there used
to be tents. Now, the Chinese Government has built tin sheds
providing space for 4 members each in rooms. 8/10 rooms have been
constructed. We didn’t see any latrine there. We had to use open
space for the routine.
My aunt, uncle and I
were little anxious, since my brother and his wife had not arrived.
They arrived an hour later and we were quite relieved! Soon the
shades of evening turned black and we were desperately waiting for
the soup to be served. It was not hunger, I guess, we needed
something hot, very hot. We sipped soups as if we had been starved
for months together.
Climate at Dirapuk is
quite uncertain. It can rain anytime, and sometimes even snowfall
occurs. One can’t be sure of second day parikrama. Sherpas judge
the climate condition and advice accordingly whether to proceed or to
return. Despite Diamox intake we were feeling nausea, headache, and
body temperature. That night, we could not eat much. I had gulped a
tablet for fever, and at about midnight I was drenched in sweat. It
was pouring outside! Ohh…good sign. I was wishing for the
announcement of our return due to bad weather. Delusions of dark
hours!!
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| Image credit:Prajna LS |
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| Image credit:Prajna LS |
Second Day was broken
amidst fog and slight drizzles. Sherpas were confident of moving
further and asked us to get ready. Those who feel very sick can
return from Dirapuk, they advised. “Himmat Rakhkho…Himmat se kaam
chalega” said Sangya Sherpa with a naughty smile. The Sherpas had
already kept a barrel of warm water for washing purpose in front of
our rooms. After having a brisk breakfast, we marched towards
Zutulpuk which needed about 32 km trek.
This day was the
toughest day of all during our Yatra. We were supposed to pass
through the Drolma La Pass (18,600 ft) and the famous Gauri Kund. The
trek included ascending the slope of Drolma La and then, descending
the slope. Once after descending the slope, we had to take up a long
trek along a river stream up to Zutulpuk. Exact calculation of the
time and distance up to Drolma la (8km) and from there up to Zutulpuk
(24 km may be) is not possible. We reached Drolma La pass (8 km up)
in three stages. It is a steep up.
The surrounding had
received good snowfall the previous night. Not a sunny day. Thick fog
had covered the hills making it more difficult for a walk. We were on
an unfathomable path, metaphorically! I just laid my burden on my
destiny that had led me so far and was confident that I would be
taken good care of by my guru Sri Datta.
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| Image credit:Prajna LS |
Sherpas were holding
two oxygen cylinders for emergency. But, they had advised us to use
that only if it was necessary. They had warned that the oxygen
supplement would have side effects, it may block lungs even more and
if it happens one may have to go back. It was a testing period of our
patience, will power, courage and luck.
We started moving
slowly, one after another. It was a narrow strip on a snowy hill
partially covered with snow. For every two steps I had to stop, take
rest on my walking stick and then had move on. We had to pass through
three steep acclivities of which the last ascent was breathtaking
experience. Through the misty depth we passed, it was like
experiencing the fate of an embryo inside the womb. We could see the
last acclivity, on which some hikers were visible, though not so
clearly.
We were not allowed to
stop anywhere. “Keep walking” Neema Sherpa who was carrying my
knapsack along with the camera bag used to poke. Senior team mates on
the pony used to greet us occasionally. We walked to strange tunes
hummed by the Chinese porters. We were crawling inside the depth of
silence.
I was breathing
heavily making sounds. I had to consume water in between to prevent
dehydration. Dry fruits will help reducing energy loss; keep them in
the pockets of your jacket. I was unable to hold even the flask.
Neema Sherpa used to hold that and he used to open even the lid of
the flask for me! He would give my camera whenever he felt it would
be alright to stop for a minute for taking photos. I thank him for
being so kind.
One of our senior
mates, Manju aunty, had completed the first day Parikrama by walk.
But, on the second day, she felt that she can’t climb the ascending
slope. Luckily she caught hold of a pony man who was returning from
the top after dropping a pilgrim. One will get Ponies till the top
only. After reaching the top (Drolma La) one will have to descend a
steep slope till some distance. Ponies can’t descend on that slope.
However, for those who have booked ponies in advance for all the
three days would get back to the pony ride after reaching the ground.
We were ascending the
third slope. Someone was sick on the way, was being assisted with
oxygen. Neema didn’t allow me to stand there. He hurried me to move
on. It was a steep rocky slope. I could feel my legs shaking. The
whole area was covered with thick fog. I had forgotten the world that
I had left behind! Face of my darling daughter flashed through my
mind, suddenly. Move or die! I had forgotten my state of being
itself. Inexplicable state of mind that was…….. in tune with the
symphony of unbound-ruthless-wild nature. Each step seemed heavy…a
state of oblivion.
It was when Neema
Sherpa said that we had reached the top I was not in state to rejoice
really! Yes, we had reached the top of Drolma La Pass. Huh!
[To be continued….]
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